My trip to a Greek island idyll where electric vehicles rule

, one of the island’s fleet of electric minibuses “We live in villages over there,” one of them tells me, pointing towards Vardia, Astypalea’s highest mountain. “The old buses were always late, but this service is on demand – it’s changed our lives.”Photograph: Volkswagen AG

Later, I hike for an hour along a path fringed with clumps of wild fennel. At the end of the track there’s a perfect curve of bay where I float beneath a cerulean sky listening to the harsh squawk of herons and the tinkle of goat’s bells.

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